Month: May 2025

I have a plug in surge protector but as I’m learning, it only protects you from electrical surges. Still, there are several other electrical risks that need to be mitigated. An Electrical Management System (EMS) would protect your camper from many electrical risks. These include surge, voltage, polarity, and lost/open neutral protection. I dug for info and talked to several professional installers. Then I decided to get a Progressive industries EMS-HW30C. It is hard wired and includes a remote screen.

While both surge protectors and Electrical Management Systems (EMS) protect your RV from electrical issues, EMS offer more comprehensive protection. EMS check the incoming power for multiple issues, including reversed polarity, voltage fluctuations, and open ground/neutral, and will disconnect your RV if problems are detected, preventing potential damage. Surge protectors primarily focus on protecting against surges, while EMS offer broader protection against a variety of electrical problems.

I headed to the nearest Ace Hardware to pick up a small roll of Romex 10/2 orange wire. Romex uses solid copper wire and is very stiff. This is especially true if you want the wire to be laid down nice and neat. It is not the easiest wire to work with. “10/2” means it has three 10AWG solid copper wires. Black (power), white (negative), and bare (ground).

From there I found a big parking lot that permits overnight RV parking. I called the store manager to ask for permission to park a couple hours. She gave me permission to park overnight. It was around Noon so I had plenty of light. I needed to install the EMS between the WFCO power system and the 30A connection. This was in the left wheel well compartment in the camper.

The first step was to turn the camper master battery switch off, always a good idea. The next step was to secure the EMS to the floor of the compartment. I used some #8 3/4″ button head screws, some #8 metal washers, and some #8 rubber washers. The rubber washers are for reducing vibration, which is supposed to help with EMS hum sound.

I disconnected the existing Romex 10/2 wire from the 30A port, leaving the other end connected to the WFCO. This left me with about three feet. I connected the loose end to the output port on the EMS. That completed wiring for one side of the EMS.

I then cut a longer piece of Romex 10/2 wire. It needed to reach from the 30A port to the “input” port of the EMS. I made sure there was enough slack to bend around corners of the compartment for a clean install. I connected the new Romex 10/2 wire to the “input” side of the EMS.

EMS-HW30C codes:

Error codes:
E-1 (Reverse Polarity), E-2 (Open Ground), E-3 (High Voltage on Line 1), E-4 (Low Voltage on Line 1), E-5 (High Voltage on Line 2), E-6 (Low Voltage on Line 2), E-7 (High Frequency), E-8 (Low Frequency), and E-9 (Data Link Down). Error code E-0 indicates a normal operating condition. 

I found an inexpensive RV park that provides 30A electricity, to test the EMS. The remote screen has a bypass switch (EMS/bypass). You can use it if you’re using a generator. It can also be used if the EMS sacrificed itself. In that case, you need to fall back to your plug-in surge protector. Went through both scenarios and everything worked perfectly. I confirmed I couldn’t hear the hum coming from the EMS. There are two reasons. My hearing isn’t perfect, and I don’t normally walk around with my hearing aids on. Additionally, the passenger side seat cushion suppresses noise.

I can scratch this off my list. I probably shouldn’t have waited so long. Luckily I don’t stay in RV parks too often. The Progressive industries EMS-HW30C has a lifetime warranty, which is comforting, and speaks volumes about their products and support.

This post is a summary, I have spent October through December getting up to speed on boondocking. I didn’t realize there was so much to wrap my head around. Now that I’m retired I have plenty of time to learn this stuff.

Tow Vehicle

When I bought my Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon (JLUR) in 2021 I made sure it came with Mopar’s tow package. All part of my master plan to prepare for retirement.

• 240 AMP Alternator
• 4.10 Final drive ratio (standard on JLUR)
• Transmission Cooler
• Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
• Trailer Sway Damping
• Trailer brake controller harness (I eventually installed a Redarc Tow-Pro Trail)
• Class III hitch with 2″ receiver
• 7 and 4 pin wiring harness
• Auxiliary switches (standard on JLUR)
• 75W140 rear differential fluid

I had the dealer install the Mopar 2″ lift, and 315/70R17 bead-locks. Jeep mentioned this alone increases tow capacity from 3,500 pounds, though it’s not documented. For what it’s worth the 2025 JLUR with the lift and big tires has a 5,000 pound capacity. In any case, my camping trailer is 2,000 pounds, so towing is a breeze.

After asking a lot of Jeep owners who tow trailers, I installed a Redarc Tow-Pro Trail brake controller. It has an off-road mode that makes negotiating rough terrain so much easier. The normal mode makes braking on roads a lot smoother and safer. Now, instead of the Jeep brakes slowing down the four wheels on the Jeep, the camper wheels slow down too. I didn’t realize how bad it was to not have a brake controller when pulling a trailer.

Winterizing

The first thing I needed to learn is how to winterize the camper. Freezing temperatures can cause serious damage to your fluid pipes and tanks. As a snowbird, you check the 10 day weather forecast. You aim to stay at 40º or higher. Staying at 32º is cutting it close. Planning ahead, you’ll need to prepare to head to the next good weather spot…else your winterization practice and having the right equipment will be important.

Here is a video that explains how that’s done. This is something that was worth practicing.

I had to cobble together a winterization kit. I chose the most durable and reliable parts so it’ll last years. I ended up making some for friends. I did not include the compressor. They gladly allowed me to pick their brains on boondocking stuff.

Power

I mostly boondock, so I am self contained. No sewage or water or power connections.

My camper is a tear drop that has fixed solar panels on a curved roof, totaling 380W. To be honest, that is a bullshit number considering the camper roof is curved. I bungee corded a flat 100W panel to the back of the camper. This was done to make up for the curved panel power discrepancy.

Over the next few weeks I kept an eye on the solar panels power levels (using VictronConnect). I observed something interesting. On sunny days, the 100W flat panel produces 3-4 times as much power as the 380W curved panel. On overcast or cloudy days, the 380W curved panel actually produces more power. It generates 2-3 times as much power as the 100W flat panel. I guess my solar panel setup balances out. 🙂

To get the most sun, I make sure to point the solar panels (true) South. My Jeep has a folding solar panel that covers the windshield. Once the camper is detached and all set up, I point the Jeep (true) South as well.

The camper came with a single Battle Born heated 100ah LiFePO4 battery. I decided to double that once I started boondocking full time, so I added a second battery. Different enclosure shape, but matching specs, a necessity when setting up a parallel array. I added a 1200W inverter in case I ever need it. Note: the air conditioner and microwave only run on AC. I only ever use them when I am on shore power (at an RV park with full connections).

I spent a few weeks fixing some of the camper wiring, connections, fuses, ventilation, etc. Here is my schematic at the time I published this article. This was my first solar power upgrade project. Learned a lot.

My Jeep has its own off grid power. A 100ah LiFePO4 battery is kept charged by the alternator when I am driving. Solar panels charge it when I am not driving. I position and plug in my folding solar panel.

COMMUNICATION

I have HAM, GMRS, and CB mobile and handheld radios. I use them when the folks I’m with use any of those types of radios. I have a cell phone but I hardly use it. Most of the folks I wheel with are on HAM. So I usually have my HAM radio mounted under my iPad which runs Trails Offroad.

My Starlink Mini is mounted inside the Jeep, flat against the inner fiberglass roof (yes it sees through it). Since snow is not a concern, tilt is moot. Since you can be connected while moving, rotation is moot as well. the only thing that matters is that you have a 120º clear view of the sky.

It is powered by my Jeep’s LiFePO4 battery, connected through a step up converter. The draw is negligible, so I keep it on 24/7 but I do have it sleep between midnight and 8am. I’m glad I don’t need to mount it outside. I just need to park the Jeep in an area that has open sky.

DUMP

If you stay at a RV park, your camper will be connected to a sewer, city water, and electricity. I try to avoid RV parks since IMO it’s an unnecessary expense, and boring.

If you are boondocking, you’ll need to plan ahead. You should be aware of the local dumps. I have a small camping trailer. The tanks are on the small side. I need to take it to a dump once a week or so.

A proper dump has both a sewer, a rinse spigot, and a distance away another spigot that provides potable water. It seems more dumps don’t have a separate potable water spigot if the rinse spigot source is potable. In that scenario, make sure to have a separate hose for rinsing and for potable water. I shouldn’t have to explain why. 🙂

You should have:

• A sewage hose (with end plugs) at least 15 feet long when expanded.
• Long hose (rated for drinking water) would suggest this one (it has a brass fitting; you’ll want to avoid aluminum fittings)
• Short hose (for rinsing, sometimes called a “lead”)
• Waterproof gloves and protective eye wear (trust me)

RVs typically have three tanks:

• Black Tank is where your toilet sends your business to. In my case it is a 5 gallon cassette. So I pull the cassette, dump it into the sewer, rinse it, and put it back into the camper.
• Grey Tank is where water from the sink and shower empty to. Mine can hold 18 gallons.
• Fresh Water Tank is where potable water is filtered and stored in, for the sink, shower, and toilet. I would never drink from this tank, it holds 19 gallons.

I would suggest storing your drinking and cooking water in a container. I use a Scepter 5 gallon jug. I usually fill it at a water dispenser, or if necessary I buy water from Walmart.

The tanks all need to be sanitized regularly, plenty of videos on how to do it.

Koda is asking me to take him out to do his business, so gotta go…