This post is a summary, I have spent October through December getting up to speed on boondocking. I didn’t realize there was so much to wrap my head around. Now that I’m retired I have plenty of time to learn this stuff.
Tow Vehicle
When I bought my Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon (JLUR) in 2021 I made sure it came with Mopar’s tow package. All part of my master plan to prepare for retirement.
- 240 AMP Alternator
- 4.10 Final drive ratio (standard on JLUR)
- Transmission Cooler
- Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
- Trailer Sway Damping
- Trailer brake controller harness (I eventually installed a Redarc Tow-Pro Trail)
- Class III hitch with 2″ receiver
- 7 and 4 pin wiring harness
- Auxiliary switches (standard on JLUR)
- 75W140 rear differential fluid
I had the dealer install the Mopar 2″ lift, and 315/70R17 bead-locks. Jeep mentioned this alone increases tow capacity from 3,500 pounds, though it’s not documented. For what it’s worth the 2025 JLUR with the lift and big tires has a 5,000 pound capacity. In any case, my camping trailer is 2,000 pounds, so towing is a breeze.
After asking a lot of Jeep owners who tow trailers, I installed a Redarc Tow-Pro Trail brake controller. It has an off-road mode that makes negotiating rough terrain so much easier. The normal mode makes braking on roads a lot smoother and safer. Now, instead of the Jeep brakes slowing down the four wheels on the Jeep, the camper wheels slow down too. I didn’t realize how bad it was to not have a brake controller when pulling a trailer.
Winterizing
The first thing I needed to learn is how to winterize the camper. Freezing temperatures can cause serious damage to your fluid pipes and tanks. As a snowbird, you check the 10 day weather forecast. You aim to stay at 40º or higher. Staying at 32º is cutting it close. Planning ahead, you’ll need to prepare to head to the next good weather spot…else your winterization practice and having the right equipment will be important.
Here is a video that explains how that’s done. This is something that was worth practicing.
I had to cobble together a winterization kit. I chose the most durable and reliable parts so it’ll last years. I ended up making some for friends. I did not include the compressor. They gladly allowed me to pick their brains on boondocking stuff.
Power
I mostly boondock, so I am self contained. No sewage or water or power connections.
My camper is a tear drop that has fixed solar panels on a curved roof, totaling 380W. To be honest, that is a bullshit number considering the camper roof is curved. I bungee corded a flat 100W panel to the back of the camper. This was done to make up for the curved panel power discrepancy.
Over the next few weeks I kept an eye on the solar panels power levels (using VictronConnect). I observed something interesting. On sunny days, the 100W flat panel produces 3-4 times as much power as the 380W curved panel. On overcast or cloudy days, the 380W curved panel actually produces more power. It generates 2-3 times as much power as the 100W flat panel. I guess my solar panel setup balances out. 🙂
To get the most sun, I make sure to point the solar panels (true) South. My Jeep has a folding solar panel that covers the windshield. Once the camper is detached and all set up, I point the Jeep (true) South as well.
The camper came with a single Battle Born heated 100ah LiFePO4 battery. I decided to double that once I started boondocking full time, so I added a second battery. Different enclosure shape, but matching specs, a necessity when setting up a parallel array. I added a 1200W inverter in case I ever need it. Note: the air conditioner and microwave only run on AC. I only ever use them when I am on shore power (at an RV park with full connections).
I spent a few weeks fixing some of the camper wiring, connections, fuses, ventilation, etc. Here is my schematic at the time I published this article. This was my first solar power upgrade project. Learned a lot.
My Jeep has its own off grid power. A 100ah LiFePO4 battery is kept charged by the alternator when I am driving. Solar panels charge it when I am not driving. I position and plug in my folding solar panel.
COMMUNICATION
I have HAM, GMRS, and CB mobile and handheld radios. I use them when the folks I’m with use any of those types of radios. I have a cell phone but I hardly use it. Most of the folks I wheel with are on HAM. So I usually have my HAM radio mounted under my iPad which runs Trails Offroad.
My Starlink Mini is mounted inside the Jeep, flat against the inner fiberglass roof (yes it sees through it). Since snow is not a concern, tilt is moot. Since you can be connected while moving, rotation is moot as well. the only thing that matters is that you have a 120º clear view of the sky.
It is powered by my Jeep’s LiFePO4 battery, connected through a step up converter. The draw is negligible, so I keep it on 24/7 but I do have it sleep between midnight and 8am. I’m glad I don’t need to mount it outside. I just need to park the Jeep in an area that has open sky.
DUMP
If you stay at a RV park, your camper will be connected to a sewer, city water, and electricity. I try to avoid RV parks since IMO it’s an unnecessary expense, and boring.
If you are boondocking, you’ll need to plan ahead. You should be aware of the local dumps. I have a small camping trailer. The tanks are on the small side. I need to take it to a dump once a week or so.
A proper dump has both a sewer, a rinse spigot, and a distance away another spigot that provides potable water. It seems more dumps don’t have a separate potable water spigot if the rinse spigot source is potable. In that scenario, make sure to have a separate hose for rinsing and for potable water. I shouldn’t have to explain why. 🙂
You should have:
- A sewage hose (with end plugs) at least 15 feet long when expanded.
- Long hose (rated for drinking water) would suggest this one (it has a brass fitting; you’ll want to avoid aluminum fittings)
- Short hose (for rinsing, sometimes called a “lead”)
- Waterproof gloves and protective eye wear (trust me)
RVs typically have three tanks:
- Black Tank is where your toilet sends your business to. In my case it is a 5 gallon cassette. So I pull the cassette, dump it into the sewer, rinse it, and put it back into the camper.
- Grey Tank is where water from the sink and shower empty to. Mine can hold 18 gallons.
- Fresh Water Tank is where potable water is filtered and stored in, for the sink, shower, and toilet. I would never drink from this tank, it holds 19 gallons.
I would suggest storing your drinking and cooking water in a container. I use a Scepter 5 gallon jug. I usually fill it at a water dispenser, or if necessary I buy water from Walmart.
The tanks all need to be sanitized regularly, plenty of videos on how to do it.
Koda is asking me to take him out to do his business, so gotta go…
